INTRODUCTION
This
is my first 1/72 since I resumed modeling in late 2000 (I usually build 1/32 –
1/24) and enjoyed it a lot. I tried and improved detailing without aftermarket
stuff, but only with a bit of scratch building. This article has been first
published on an Italian modeling website, www.modellisti.sullarete.it.
THE
PLANE
I
chose “Shangri-La” since I still remember the Revell 1/32 one that my dad
built many, many years ago. You can find a huge documentation on this plane, and
I found particularly useful the site http://wademeyersart.tripod.com/,
where also the markings of this plane are fully described.
CONSTRUCTION
Hasegawa
kit has well known good and bad points.
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Cockpit: it is almost fully scratch built, as well as the radio
equipment. I used mainly plastic card and sprue to do everything. There
are over 100 pieces in it. I also cut and thinned the canopy to place it
open.
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Fuselage:
I
added a few details to the cooler flap. I found very good the shape of the
fuselage, particularly on the front where the round-to-square section is
well captured.
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Wings:
and here we go with problems… First of all, the wing-fuselage fillet is
incorrect; the fillet meets the wing in the correct position but meets the
fuselage as it was a P-51D fillet. I cut and reshaped this part with plastic
card and super glue. Another bad point is the main gear well, far too thin,
incorrectly detailed and with the opening shaped as in the –D model. I cut the
whole well and rebuilt it; I also corrected the opening shape (but forgot to do
the same on the gear doors, what a mistake!!! Finally, I dropped the flaps.
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Miscellaneous
details: I filed the
wheels to weight them and added ducting to wing drop tanks.
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PAINTING
AND MARKINGS
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I used Humbrol and a few Lifecolor for details. Both were brushed /
airbrushed depending upon the part to be painted.
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ETO white stripes on the wings were painted, while tail stripes must not
be included (in spite of Hase’s decaling instructions).
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Painting / weathering was as follows. First, I gave the whole airframe a
coat of underside grey; then I corrected a few flaws; not all of them, I must
admit…; then I touched up the grey.
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After this, I painted upper surfaces Olive Drab, slightly tinted with red
to give it a brownish hue.
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Then I lightened the panel centre spraying extra thinned white; when dry,
I smoothed the effect by spraying extra thinned green and grey on the
upper/under surfaces respectively.
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Now it was time for weathering with dry pastel powder, sealed with hand
brushed Future,
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I applied decals using Future as decal glue and setting solution, and it
was very effective (I was not so on some decals…you can see a bit of
silvering). The checkerboard on both sides of engine cowling is another story.
Hasegawa decal sheet includes one only, and this has the wrong number of
checkers. Consequently, I printed new checkerboards with my old HP inkjet on a
white decal sheet. The ink did not dry thoroughly, so I coated the decal with
Humbrol clear flat, that frosted everything. To correct this, I touched up the
checkers with red enamel applied with a fine brush. Not perfect, but acceptable,
at least IMHO.
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I applied another coat of Future over the decals and then pastels again,
this time (on the gloss surface) using powder-water mixture, thus enhancing
panel lines, grids, etc.
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A final semi gloss coat sealed everything but the very final touch done
with dry pastels.
I
then added the details: gears, prop, antenna mast (no wire on this aircraft),
etc.
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The
final outcome leaves me satisfied, although I am aware of the flaws: some
rescribed panel lines not perfect, canopy frame not very sharp edged, dust
particles in the paint…
Anyway,
I usually do not try and correct everything, although I maybe could: I find it
boring. I believe that quality will get better on the next model. My goal is to
have fun, not to win contests (anyone may think it differently, of course).
I’ll try to learn from my mistakes in order to avoid the same in the future.
Pics
are taken with an Olympus digital camera, except for those of the opened
cockpit, taken with a rougher device.
Thanks
for attention and for sharing any comments.
Massimo
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